This tip is designed to work with the release sequence seen in ‘The 21st Century Golf Swing’ book. Remember this book is more concerned with accuracy for good golf play and scoring than maximum power, versus the ‘How to Kill the Ball’ book which is written primarily for long driving contest type power. Maximum power must, due to its inherent violence, reduce accuracy. In playing for score giving up a small percentage of power increases ones chances for low scoring.

The hands are the major speed producers in this type of golf swing, they are actuated by the forearm muscles in an entirely different way than in the common swing. As you have read in my books, we will be using the hands and the forearm muscles to twirl the club in a circular manner rather than in a chopping down and rolling over fashion as is commonly taught.

Through impact, the right hand tosses the club head through the ball under the left forearm, rather than over it, as the left hand flexes at the wrist. When this happens the club head travels from behind the point of the arm shoulder triangle and catches up to it during impact. Done correctly the club head swings past the point of the triangle after impact without the club face closing. This can be learned by teeing up the ball and hitting easy 3/4 wedge shots and tossing the club head past the left arm through impact. Be sure to not rotate the left forearm in a rollover type movement, instead feel the left palm face down after impact. A good way to feel this type release is to turn your left fist knuckles up after impact, this gets the left palm facing down. Do this while swinging easily and you will soon feel the release. This action allows the inner forearm muscle of the right hand to slap through, assisted by the left outer forearm muscles as you fully release the left wrist.

Much additional speed can be gained without negatively affecting club head alignments if the forearms are wound up during the back swing and unwound throughout the entire release sequence. This winding and unwinding of the forearm muscles allows the use of the complete set of forearm muscles, including the ones that rotate the forearm bones, rather than just the ones that flex the wrists in the fore and aft plane. Use your little club to see this action up close and personal.

Do not over look the full completion of the release, the club must have a square club face as it passes through the ball. A less than full release will often leave the club head trailing the hands, rather than catching up to the left arm at impact and shortly after impact passing it. This error creates a soft block type shot that gives up some power and falls short and to the right of your objective.

A little time spent learning this release feeling will pay big dividends later. The correct use of the hands, will allow the player to use a less violent hip slide in the pivot, without giving up too much power.

In the aperfectswing method the Tempo of the swing is controlled by the speed of the lower body as it first slides laterally to shift the weight to the front post, and then rotates as the legs rotate the pelvis on top of this post.

Due to this aperfectswing players have very little trouble with tempo, although with the longer clubs and especially with the driver the timing of the pivot can be too quick for the arms and hands to keep up with.

This situation is a sign that the legs are working well but the arms are too weak to keep up with them. This is a common problem since we use our legs much more in modern life than we do the arms. If the arms and forearms do not have the strength to make the club head catch up with the left arm at impact, the swing will suffer with pushed shots. These shots start out to the right of the intended target, are generally short and have a slight tail to the right that occurs as the ball falls.

If you are hitting shots like these look to the timing of your arms with the pivot, these shots occur due to the club head having not been given enough energy to catch the left arm. Until the hands, forearms and hands aquire enough strength the speed of the pivot must be reduced.

Try making a very slow pivot while at the same time trying to speed up the twirl of club head, you may be surprised to find out how much you need to slow down the hips to make the club head catch up. To do this properly it is vital that the chest must not unwind from the hips, you must be striking the ball alongside of the right pants pocket. Any unwinding causes the player to arrive at the impact position out of time so that the flick of the hips which is vital to driving the left hand through impact becomes mis-timed.

At impact the left arm and club will be in a straight line as seen from an observer facing the player at address. seen from behind the left arm and club will still have the original arm shaft angle, however the right arm will still have some bend at the elbow and the right hand will still have a cup at the back of the wrist.

The above described impact position will find the right elbow in the act of straightening and the right hand in the act of throwing through. In simpler terms the right arm and hand are reacting exactly as they would in a sidearm throw, they are moving through the described positions not frozen in them. Slow down your shift and turn as you twirl the club through the conical release, when you get the above described timing of the release actions down the ball will leap off the club. After you are doing this for a while simply speed up both the pivot and the twirl.

Gradually as your strength increases (don't worry, it will, and quite quickly) you will be able to hit the ball hard with both your pivot and your twirl. A little time spent getting the timing right will be well rewarded.

Once the swing is learned 2 things build further distance, #1 is strength, the muscles will get stronger simply by doing it. #2 is speed, this comes from the strength you gain and the “trust” you must get to let the swing freewheel. Gaining strength quickly can be done by either hitting a ton of balls, or excercise.

A great excercise is to wring out a sopping wet bath towel until it is totally dry several times each time reversing the wringing motion so that the hands and forearms are worked in both directions. Another is to swing a weighted club, while swinging a weighted club gradually add weight and gradually build speed while being sure to maintain form. The best weighted club is one that you make yourself by adding fishing sinkers, or other heavy items,to the club head using duct tape to secure them. I ended up with just a large lock that I clamped on the shaft. It is important to wrap some duct tape around the item an the shaft as well, this prevents the weight from pulling the club head off and causing injury or damage.

Scoring however is about thinking, shot selection, execution and feel. These things are separate from the golf swing and are the reasons why a good swing does not necessarily create a good score. However having one does make it a lot easier to get one.

Here is a great drill to produce feel, start on the putting green, using only 2 balls. Pick out an imaginary spot on the green 8 to 10 feet away and roll the ball to it. Place the second ball down and immediately try to hit the first ball, do not dally by reading the putt, simply hit it. Try to hit the object ball hard enough to move it away at least 3 feet. If you hit it do it again, from the new spot, each time hitting it hard enough to move it at least 3 feet.

This drill gets the mind on driving the ball at the objective without any thought as to speed control. It is basically a drill for getting the ball started on line. Next roll the first ball 8 to 10 feet and attempt to hit the second ball and leave the balls as close together as possible, touching each other is perfect. Together these 2 drills give touch for speed and line in a way that gets the sub concious involved.

Having done that on the green with the putter, now go off the green and do it by chipping. Start with the 7 iron and chip the ball over at least 3 feet of the fringe, put down another ball and try to hit the ball and move it 3 feet or more. Then try again (from off the green) to just make them touch. Do this with all clubs from the sand wedge to the 5 iron while doing the above drills. When you get pretty good at this switch up clubs, hit the first shot with a sand wedge or 6 iron, then choose another club to make the second shot. Vary the shots make one ball move after hit by thye second ball or make them touch. Soon you will have a number of available clubs and shots to hit around the greens and the touch of a safe cracker. This selection of shots and the touch that goes with them will give you the ability to 1 putt much more often.

The best way to follow a bad shot with another bad shot is to lose your cool. Even 1 minute spent berating yourself is a minute that could have been spent thinking about the swing you just made to identify the cause of the error and to then make the practice swing or 2 that will set it right for the next swing.

To this end we must organize our thoughts to quickly find and repair our errors, rather than waste our time and mental energy being angry. Then, until we are ready to hit the ball again, focus only on finding the ball and deciding what we must do to recover. Once the plan for the recovery shot is formulated it is important to make a few practice swings to both feel the swing that will create the correct ball flight, as well as to rehearse the errorless swing we have found the repairs for previously. This way we will have a far better chance of excecuting the recovery swing properly and not making the same error in the swing that got us into trouble in the first place. It is these repitition of similar swing errors that reinforce the mistake into habit.

It is often the failure to remember the repairs that we have decided to make and then to put those thoughts into play as we plan the next shot. Then the planned recovery shot containing the error creates another bad shot further complicating the hole.

Always remember the error you found in your earlier swings and make practice swings to feel the correct way that you want to swing the club. This way we will minimize the repeating of errors. It is the repitition of errors that creates frustration and the loss of "cool".

Learn this and you will not only play better, you will also feel better about yourself and make your playing partners a lot happier to play with you. A frustrated an angry player not only plays worse, he also makes his friends unhappy.

The twirl is a purely circular motion of the clubhead around the point of the arm shoulder triangle at the wrist joints. Due to its circular nature it produces much speed similar to the way we can make a keyring gain speed as we twirl it. The speed of the clubhead created by the circular twirl of the clubhead around the hands is combined with the speed created by the circular motion of the point of the arm shoulder triangle at the wrists as the hands are rotating around the swing circle center.

Thus the twirling hands are returned to and through impact powered by the weight shift and the hip turn. Due to the perfect control of the path and the plane created by our leg and hip actions the center of the rotation of the twirl is perfectly controlled as it is directed and powered around the swing circle center by the pivot. Together these 2 speeds, combine to provide rapid clubhead speed with very little application of effort. In the words of Mike Dunaway "You get more out of less with this swing than with any other way of swinging the club". He could not be more right.

The twirling action of the club is felt to be a rotation of the two lower bones of the right forearm, however it triggers the action of many other right arm movements. Remember that all of the muscles that we will use on the down swing are stretched by the motions we make as we swing back, thus they are ready to reverse the actions as we swing down simply by contracting.

This contracting action will happen in the perfect sequence and at the exact right time and place in the downswing if we correctly trigger the start of the motion. Especially important in the backswing is the counter-rotation of the forearms which positions the right hand as if we were holding a plate of spaghetti on a small tray. This action correctly winds up the forearm bones, stretching additional muscles that we can use to add clubhead speed.

These additional muscles are very quick acting small muscles that cause the club to rotate around the wrists in a true circular motion relative to the point of the arm shoulder triangle. As you know this point is independently driven around the swing circle center by the pivot, together these 2 coinciding circular motions create much power and the precise swing plane, clubhead path and clubface control. Done correctly these actions are the true secret to the formula for power and acuracy.

The trigger that starts all of these actions is a light push of the right thumb to begin the clubhead rotation of the twirl as the hips slide left caused by the actions of the feet and knees that starts the pivot. Correctly done all of the effort of the golf swing is done in the first 2 feet of the downswing, from there the swing freewheels as the contraction of the stretched muscles combine with centifugal force and gravity to provide enormous power and a precisely controlled clubface ball contact.

Many people in a misguided attempt at hitting the ball hard make the mistake of trying to hit it too hard. You can tell if this is you if you do not make consistant Club/Ball contact, or if you find that you cannot get the clubhead to catch up to the left arm.

The catching up of the clubhead to the left arm is vital to getting the full transfer of energy from the club to the ball, thus it can be a big surprise to the player when he slows down the actions of the body (the pivot of the body and the forcefull right arm hit) and by doing so, feels the right hand tossing type release happen through the ball.

If you feel that you are doing the pivot properly and that the rest of the swing is also functioning according to the concept, a simple slowing down of the pivot can work wonders.

Remember, it is not the speed of the left hand around the body that creates clubhead speed, it is the speed of the twirl. When the body correctly shifts the weight and then rotates on the posted left leg the massive power created by that action can cause the player to not have the hand and forearm strength to make the club catch up. This strength can and will be gained through repitition, but if it is not yet there a simple slowing down of the pivot will allow the weaker body parts to get the release to happen on time. This will cause a much better transfer of energy, which equals longer shots. Later when the hands and forearms gain strength the speed of the pivot may be increased.

It is far better to execute the motion perfectly than it is to ruin the action by overpowering it, there is much more power to be had in this golf swing, but it must be done gracefully, not forcefully.

Several people have reported having a bit of trouble with directional control after they start hitting the ball with good power. There are two areas of concern when we deal with accuracy, they are 2/3 of the entire perfect shot equation. The 3 parts of the perfect swing are, club head speed, club face squareness and club head path. All three of these factors must exist in equal proportions to get that perfect shot. This drill is to train the hands to keep the clubface square in the bottom section of the conical release arc.

The little club shows the correct hand release motions, and they must be mastered to control the alignment of the club as it travels at a speed that cannot be conciously controlled through impact.

The little club drills should be bolstered with a drill done against a vertical surface such as piece of plywood standing on edge or a wall that you don't mind scraping such as a closet wall.

While doing the drill keep the hands directly in front of your belt buckle, make no effort to turn either the hips or the chest (the hands must remain in place as we use the wrist axels only), swing the club while keeping the toe of the club on the wall. Do this by feeling as if you are twisting the shaft 1/8 of a turn counter- clockwise as you set the right wrist straight back. This will result in the club swinging in an arc with the club face perfectly perpindicular to the wall throughout the arc. The arc will stop when the shaft is 45 degrees to the floor, on both sides of the ball. As the backswing of this small hand motion stops the left wrist will be slightly bowed and the right wrist will be fully cupped. To test your ability to contrl the clubface as it releases, swing the club slowly back and forth with your eyes closed. Stop anywhere in the arc and open your eyes, the lines on the clubface should be perpindicular to the surface of the wall. If they are not more practice is needed.

This drill must be done until the hands keep the club perfect through the arc, without thought, when this happens they will perform the release without concious control during the full swing.

Of course during any larger swing, as the elbows trombone and the body turns the clubface will come off the wall as it travels up the plane. The feeling of the hand actions that you will have practiced will be your guide. Done in the full swing as practiced they will control the clubface as you release through the ball.

The muscles that we will be using swinging back down will have been stretched and thus will guide the club perfectly back through the ball as we make the return swing. Only when the natural return of the stretched muscles guide the club will it fly through the hitting area at maximum speed while having full control without our concious help.

If you are still having directional control, tune in next week, I will post a tip on path control.

To create solid contact and beautifully flighted shots requires the club face to not only be traveling rapidly with the toe and heel of the club traveling at the same speed (square contact), it also requires that the club head be travelling straight down the flight line while the ball is on it.

This final requirement is the cause of many poor golf shots and if it is your problem, it is a sign of a serious problem with the swing itself. With this method, as shown in the 21st. Century Golf Swing book, the path of the club is controlled by the pivot. Any error in this path can be identified either as being too much in to out, meaning that the club head is coming from inside the flight line before contact and traveling across the flight line after impact. This creates a push if the ball goes straight (without curvature) to the right of the target. it can also cause a ball flight with either curvature.

The opposite situation of too much out to is a much more common occurence, and is best described by the words "over the top". This condition creates a too steep down swing and at best a shot that is pulled dead left about 20 degrees if the club head fully releases. If it does not a push, block, or slice is the result. The single most common cause of a slice is this out to in swing path condition.

Both of these conditions can easily be solved by a full understanding of the following words. The rotation of the body must not start until the weight of the body has shifted on to the forward post (the left leg). This must happen before the hips rotate left. If this does not happen either of the 2 above conditions can happen, although they will happen in entirely different ways. The out to in (over the top) problem is discussed first because it is the most common.

If the hips begin to turn left before the weight has shifted, the turning hips by using the spine as a driveshaft, rotate the chest and shoulders too early in the down swing. The left hip instead of acting like a post, instead rotates left away from the line of flight and the ball. Due to this the swing is thrown outward and over the top. The body has thus rotated while the weight is on the wrong leg. Instead of the right side of the body rotating in toward the ball, the left side of the body has instead whirled away from it. Once the error is started no one can recover from it, this is why trying to swing in to out after that initial fatal error only makes the situation worse by causing the arms to swing in a different direction than the body takes them. For optimum power and control the arms must be turned by the axel of the spine exactly the way an axel would turn the spokes in a wheel attached to it, rather than in an independent manner. If the spokes do not turn with the axle the wheel wobbles.

The opposite problem, too much in to out, is commonly called the push. It is also caused by faulty leg and hip action, but the error occurs a bit later in the swing. In this situation the weight shift back to the left leg has occured properly, but the rotation of the pelvis on top of the now posted left leg has stopped too early, thus it has not completely turned the chest to square. The right leg must rotate the pelvis in toward the flight line and around. Done this way it turns the entire right side of the body powerfully into the ball. This error can easily be solved by using the right calf muscle to push the right knee and with it the hip through the hitting area. To assist this the right heel must rotate out to parallel to the flight line thus completing the hip turn.

To this end the information on how to do this can be found in visual form on several of my DVDs.

The ability to control the trajectory seperates the good players from the great players, and this swing method gives total control of that in a way the ordinary swing cannot. The release we will use to do this swings the club face in a conical arc as the club passes through impact, thus going down under and up as it passes through the hit, rather than the out over and around release used by the common swing. When the hands release this way our club face passes through impact with the club face both square to the ball as well as traveling straight down the line of flight, and not working from open, to square (hopefully), at impact and then to closed after impact as is the case in the common swing caused by the rolling over of the forearms. The conical action of the club must be felt throughout the entire range of the swing, be the shot a short flip or a full drive.

Our forearms do not have to roll over, due to the reverse roll of the counter rotation of the forearm bones. This also requires that we allow the left wrist to give as it releases instead of trying to hold it flat. This is accomplished and the release arc is grooved with the club face control drill seen above from 2/19/07. When your hands release using the toe of the club on the wall drill actions, the ball can be played anywhere from as far forward as even with the left heel, for high shots, to 6 inches to the right of the right toe line for low ones.

Since the club face will remain square throughout this entire area the grip will not have to change, nor will the hands need to change their position on the club. The shaft will simply need to angle back from the hands to the ball, effectively leaning the shaft toward the target. To facilitate this and to have the proper release arc (downward) the butt end of the club must point directly at the left hip socket at address. This will allow us up to a 60 degree adjustment to the club face, simply by ball placement. In other words: with the ball played far enough back a lob wedge could have the same effective loft as your putter. The club would naturally make a deep scar in the ground with this radical ball placement, and, naturally, the release arc could not be completed without breaking the shaft.

Practice will be required to hit these low shots, but once understood a good player would be able to hit a full 7 iron shot (power wise) that would pass under a card table placed anywhere on the flight line. In other words the shot would be very low, very straight and very hot. We would call this shot a stinger.

Conversely the ball can also be played as far forward as off the ball of the left foot, up to a vertical shaft angle, seen from facing the player at address. This shot we call the space shot, it will give maximum height for any club. Care must be taken to insure that the shaft does not pass the straight up and down position at address or at impact. The high shot cannot be hit if the angle of the shaft has the hands behind the clubhead at address, since the clubhead would have had to take a divot behind the ball, before contact, thus producing the dreaded "fat" shot. Learn this and you will be able to get out of many tight spots by keeping the ball low. Since the ball can be struck harder with the shorter shafted club and at a steeper attack angle you will generally get better control of the shot than by using a less lofted club swung more easily due to the increased backspin. Naturally this will also give better results in the rough since the arc is less sweeping thus keeping the club from hitting a bunch of grass before contact with the ball is made.

Curvature control generally is extremely easy with this swing, simply opening or closing the club face prior to taking the grip is all that is reqired. Since our club face does not revolve around the shaft through impact any alignments we set at address will also be the alignments that we have at impact, assuming of course that the path of the clubhead is correct and the twirling action of the releasing motion is understood and has been practiced into habit. Hitting a draw or hook is a simple matter of compressing the outside (away from you) half of the ball more than the near (close to you) half of the ball. This is done by getting the toe of the club to hit the ball slightly before the heel of the club hits the ball. A fade or slice is simply the reverse of the above described alignments. Remember the grip is not changed nor is the action of the golf swing, curves are caused simply by the adjustment of the club face and body alignments. The club face alignment controls the face contact attitude, and the body alignments control the club head path assuming the normal straight shot swing has been learned.

Here is how we hit these shots. When taking your stance the club face should be aimed at where you want the ball to finish, while the body is aligned with the intended line of flight desired for take off. Generally as you are learning this you will want to give a wide margin of error in your aim to be sure that you clear the obstacle you are curving the ball around. This requires a very open or closed club face and the corresponding large adjustment to the stance. Later you will be able to hit the ball to the same destination with less curvature, by aiming closer to the obstacle and having less club face and stance adjustment.

A controlled draw is the home run ball in long drives, assuming normal playing conditions, this shot gives more distance due to a lower and more boring ball flight with maximum run. In wet conditions the high flying straight shot produces more distance due to it carrying farther, since run is diminished on any shot. A high cut shot produces more distance when the wind comes from behind and to the right of the flight line. These shots are easy to set up for (the set up creates the shot) and once the ball is properly positioned, a normally executed golf swing simply gets the club to and through impact area. The pre-set alignments return and the shot is almost automatic, provided the player executes his normal swing.

Practice these shots until you are certain that the shot will come off before you try it in play. These shots will become relatively easy to hit once learned, but several rules must be obeyed to obtain good results. First rule, be sure to miss the obstacle, it makes no sense to hit a perfectly executed shot into whatever obstruction you were trying to avoid. Second, be sure that the ball is not wet and/or that no, or very little, grass will be caught between the ball and club face at impact. Third, do not aim the ball to a place where you definitely do not want the ball to go (toward a lake or O.B.) unless the club you are hitting will not hit the ball that far. Fourth, short clubs (do to their loft) are much harder to curve and require larger adjustment angles than longer clubs. Fifth, be sure that you know what curvature your club face and body alignments will produce before you hit the shot. This will require some practice to familiarize yourself with what to expect from each adjustment. Time spent learning these shots will give you a golf game that almost never finds you without a shot, unless you cannot make a swing or there simply is no exit possible.

The ball must curve as you plan when the above parameters are met, if the ball is hit solidly with the full conical release and no slippery stuff on the ball or club face. If it does not, you have done something wrong. Either you did not fully release the clubhead, in the down under and up, conical arc or you made a path error. To repair the release action practice the toe of the club on the wall drill (first tip seen above). To repair the path error re-read and fully understand the tip on controlling the path.

To get the truly majestic and perfectly controlled shots that this swing has to offer it is essential to fully release the club head through impact. I can't tell you how many times I heard Mike Austin repeat the words "let the pendulum swing". He was referring to letting the club swing freely from the wrist axles as the club went down under and up. When it released this way the entire energy of the swinging club head was released into the ball.

In this, or any other, method of swinging the club (I have tried them all) the club heads swing will be inhibited if the hands or wrists tighten up. When we consider the swinging of the club to be a pendulum type motion it is important to remember that a pendulum swings back up as well as down.

A hit and hold type of action may work okay for some type of pitch or intentional block fades, but it is no bueno for producing solid and powerfully hit shots.

There is a tremendous amount of power stored in the club head as it travels into the ball, but to release it there must be motion, it cannot stop when it gets in line with the left arm. When the club head does not pass the point of the arm shoulder triangle the club head dramatically slows down. When the clubhead is not allowed to swing freely from the wrists the player by stopping the swing sends the energy insted into himself. The energy that should have been sent into the ball in effect goes right back up the players left arm either causing a loss of balance or possibly a sore left wrist or elbow. The player is in effect hitting himself.

Having said all of that, I must add that the most efficient way to attain this release is to allow the club to swing in a cone, this cone is clearly described in both books and tutorial 1. The toe of the club on the wall drill is a must to make use of this truly dynamic motion.

A major error in this, or any other, golf swing is the control of the club head path through the ball. My tip on 2/26/07 should solve the problem, however in some players swing action the error is so deeply ingrained that mere words sometimes do not solve it. Unfortunately words are all I have through the internet.

Here is a few thoughts that work well, be sure to keep your left arm in the #7 position until after impact, make sure that you shift your weight left with no attempt to turn the hips or chest back to the ball. Do this while using your knees and feet and the large lower back muscle on the right side. Feel as if you are bumping some one, who is standing to your left and slightly in front of you, with your left hip. As you do this feel as if you are arching your back and getting your belly button up under your left arm. The slide must happen and be caused by the above leg and back muscle movements, the right knee and heel must move immediately with the left heel and knee.

If you do these things correctly you will find that your right elbow is very close to your right hip. The elbow must not be pulled down to the hip, instead the hip actually gets closer to the elbow due to the rocking action it makes as the lower end of the spine slides forward. When the elbow arrives at this position the right straightens and throws. We must attain the above position without any attempt at making any body rotation. The rotation of the hips caused by the turn of the right knee as the right foot goes up onto the toe and the right heel swings out turns the hips and with them the shoulders at exactly the right time and in exactly the right place.

The natural continuation of the arm release with the rotation of hips when these actions are done in sequence gives perfect swing path control.

Much power can be gained simply by learning the correct sequence of body movements that create a linked chain of levers. Once the spine is slid into position with the head remaining centered and the bottom end of the spine pointing at the right heel, the lower body levers are properly aligned to work in series to create immense power. The folding of the right arm and the windup of the forearms takes care of loading the upper levers. Simply reversing the sequence of movements that you made in the backswing keeps the mechanism in line and progressively increases club head speed. The system works like any other series of compound levers, each lever adds its motion and multiplies the power so long as the levers remain in line and the fulcrums maintain their relationship with the levers.

If the fulcrums move in relation to the levers the amount of multiplication generally suffers, as does the ability to strike the ball perfectly centered on the club face.

If you are losing power or not hitting the ball exactly in the center of the club face start looking for your error at the main fulcrum (the swing circle center), this is generally the culprit although once you are sure that it is stable and you still have problems at least you know which fulcrum you do not need to fix.

Since 95% of the problems in this type swing are caused by moving the swing circle center 95% of the possible errors will be eliminated simply by stabilizing this fulcrum.

As the swing starts down the arms should not do anything except for the feeling of a light spin motion of the right forearm. This light spin feeling frees up the pendulum (the club) so it can swing freely through impact, it also begins the twirl and at the same time rotates the right elbow close to the right hip for the strike. The only reason that the entire arm shoulder assembly rotates down to the ball is due to the lateral shift of the hips and then the rotation of the hips as the lower body creates the pivot. There should be no attempt to hit at the ball with the arms early in the swing sequence. However during the early part of the downswing the right arm is active as the right elbow is rotated into the release position. Correctly done it will feel as if the right arm has twirled the club and then thrown the clubhead through the ball as the left arm did nothing and remained exactly where it was at the top of the backswing.

The ability of the player to return the left arm to the impact position, while it still feels to be in the exact position that it found at the top of the backswing by using the pivot rather than swinging the left arm down will be a major key in putting the swing to work. Remember the swing must cause the hit to occur of the side of the right hip, this can only be accomplished by keeping the left arm in the number 7 position. (see page 94 in ‘The 21st Century Golf Swing’ book).

The application of power to the ball is a combination of the acceleration of the entire club combined with the free swing of the club in a pendulum like manner through impact. To this end the club must be assisted by centrifugal force and gravity and must not be solely moving due to muscular effort.

As the spine slides laterally the left arm begins its descent down the return path to the ball, the right triceps and deltoids begin to slowly straighten to return the right side of the arm shoulder triangle to straight. The right wrist however should not be flapping forward during this time, it should be held while the forearm bones rotate as the twirl starts. The final release of energy will uncock the right wrist with a heavy assist from centrifugal force and gravity.

The entire action should feel slow and the arms must travel with the rotating chest not faster than it. The speed of the club head will be anything but slow. Amazing force will be transmitted simply by letting the last lever in the chain (the club) swing freely from the unhinging wrists. The right wrist will still have some of its cock at impact, the left wrist should have a very slight bow ala Hogan. Shortly after impact when the club head has travelled about 30 degrees the reverse of these wrist positions will be seen. There should be no feeling of forearm rotation from when the hands are near the right hip until they pass the left hip. This swing does not need or want supination of the left hand. Instead the right inner forearm should almost touch the base of the left thumb as the right hand release moves in a throwing fashion.